Dissertation
Below is a series of notes that have been accumulated over time within our atelier, of all the values that are instilled into our practice. It provides the greatest insight into why we operate in the way we do. Please expand each topic to read about their specific notes:
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Our practice is grounded on the process of hand drawing, the rigorous act of tracing over and over again what already exists.
We draw without erasing. The drawing is built gradually over time, as pieces of information are collectively added, or emerge from the process.
Garment patterns are drawn with graphite and paper. They are littered with sketches of thoughts and workings – forming a palimpsest.
Translations occur as the drawings shift medium throughout our process – from graphite on paper, to chalk on cloth, to needle on garment.
Drawing by hand allows for us to constantly be at true scale with the drawing. As a result, decisions can be much more intentional based on immediate reactions to the true size of things.
We allow the hand to move before the mind has the chance to rationalise our thoughts, deliberately allowing for the unexpected to be perpetually discovered throughout the process.
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We are an artisanal brand. We believe work is only considered artisanal if: the designer is the same person as the maker, it is produced skilfully in controlled quantities, and made by their own hands – not outsourced to other makers, or automated factory machines.
All pieces are made in-house, with our very own hands, and this includes both design samples and production pieces. We operate more like a kitchen than a traditional fashion house in this sense.
For us, it was about the absolute control of design, detail and quality before it was about being artisanal. We naturally fell into the category that other brands contrive themselves into.
Making with our own hands allows the opportunity to endlessly learn from the labour, choreography, and material behaviours of production. As a result, out pieces are embedded with rigour and whimsy rather than simply a cosmetic exercise
The product is inevitably connected to the maker, and the wearers of our product feel this immediately, and more strongly over time.
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We have a primary interest in the behaviour of natural materials, with an ambition of finding what the material wants to be.
We work with a variety of specialty mills from Japan, within Australia, and the rest of the world. We prefer to develop long term relationships with our selected mills, and similarly long term relationships with the fabrics we use – to allow for generous testings over time and to discover their most ideal forms and geometries.
Some fabrics have a small proportion of man-made fibres if their garment type expects them to withstand extreme conditions – such as rains, storms or winds.
Paddings are all 100% merino wool, that is grown and processed into wadding form by a local family farm in Australia. Despite being barely visible in a garment, this is an increasingly rare trait to find in padded pieces, and we have chosen to continue this practice because it is both more beautiful and better at temperature regulation.
We prefer to minimise the use of interfacings and stiffeners. Rather relying on the inherent structure of fabric to inform the shapes, creases and falls on a piece.
In-house made oval buttons are formed from stainless steel, a material that is highly resistant and echoes our architectural milieu.
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We are insistent on incredible construction.
Our pieces are never fully lined and bagged closed. We leave linings and facings open, so we can express all of the fully finished seams throughout the garment. We use these open ends to create opportunities for geometries, overlaps and playful moments that inhabit the garment.
The presence of hand stitchings are deliberately amplified, by using a significantly heavier thread and to be performed without pre-measured markings to ensure that you can feel the human hand in the end result.
The double stitching at the centre back of all our garments – a final move on the pieces which holds our brand label from the inside, and expresses an undeniable insignia from the outside. No logos are visible, and this move is a subtle gesture forming the maker’s mark.
In our work, we refrain from pre-emptively distressing or degrading the garments simply for cosmetic reasons. We believe each garment deserves a life of its own together with their wearer, and the markings and patina that appear organically with use over time will make each piece more and more special with age.
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Our pieces all go through an immersion process, or ‘bathing’, as part of its construction. This part is also seen as an act of drawing, that reveals new characteristics of materials.
Jars of fermenting natural dyes for special embellishments and small accessories. Each of varying ages and concentrations which allow for us to learn of their behaviours and evolution of colour over time.
Colourfastness is crucial in our practice, even with natural dying. Do not expect the shade to run or bleed, but rather intensify and age gracefully with time.
Oxides and cutting agents are used for the finishing of our house-made buttons, constantly tested for new levels of finishing, colours and textures
Buckets of water with varying PH levels loom around the atelier for the finishing bath of all our garments. Water breathes life into the pieces, and allows for the natural characteristics of our fabrics to be more strongly expressed – whether through the wrinkles left-behind to catch shadows, the revealing of yarn neps/twistings, or the complete flattening of surfaces that crunches with use.
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We are located in Australia – the furthest place from most places on this planet.
This is nice because we can physically and mentally distance ourselves from the rest of the world, and work without being fazed by the fleeting trends on the market. As a result, the work is deliberately non-referential.
Our work exists in its own right. It is revealed through a rigorous drawing process, alongside a deep study of materials and construction. The work is contemporary, and made to be used everyday. It strictly does not tie into any nostalgia or cultural appropriation.
The atelier nests on the top floor of a narrow old warehouse building along the city’s fringe. It is the home of all tools, machinery and dormant materials – a place to focus on bringing their latent potential to life.